Things that are in the news that interest me (and I want you to look at and listen to me talk about)

Issues I have... mainly with international news media. Click on the blue letters for links to the articles I'm talking about.

The way Thailand is portrayed by the international news media - This is a little (ok, a big) pet peve of mine. The international news media tends to highlight things pertaining to their interest groups, rather than educate their readers about issues they might not otherwise know about. I understand why they do this ($$$), but maybe this is why Tea Partiers don't know that we have freedom of the press in the United States (and separation of church and state...). Right, so there was a massive protest in Bangkok that ended with a violent standoff and the burning of several major buildings. But before most people saw horrific pictures of "Bangkok Burning" they had little idea of what was actually happening here. Now, CNN is teasing (chiding? highlighting a pointless note about Thailand?) for its obsession with a recent celebrity sex scandal and it makes CNN's homepage. I think this speaks more to what the US news media thinks (and does) sell in the US, rather than a "way for stressed Thais to safely relieve their tension." Is news of Brittany Spears shaving her head a way for Americans to safely relieve their tension concerning the blatant lies of many politicians? I mean, at least Thai politicians don't have to avoid religious sites for fear of being mislabeled Muslims (and really, why is it such a problem to be Muslim? I know Muslims/Sikhs/Buddhists/Hindus/Christians/Jews who are wonderful people because of their religion. I know Christians/Buddhists/Muslims/Jews/Sikhs/Hindus who are less than wonderful people, despite their religion.)

Why not highlight the recent peaceful protests by those "red shirt rioters" that occurred September 19th? Or the horrible flooding that has covered many parts of the country? Or, for that matter, the human rights issues Thailand has with refugees from Burma? No, things aren't perfect in Thailand and the country certainly has many issues to work through, but what country doesn't.

Speaking of refugees in Burma, why isn't their more international news/uproar about the elections to be held in Burma/Myanmar in November? Why aren't all of those Americans who so desperately want to promote democracy calling out in protest at the scam that is the Burmese "democracy"? The military junta that seized control after the last "democratic" elections in 1990 is the same one in power today - they are shifting military leaders to civilian posts (so they can be 'elected'), banning anyone who's been jailed from running (like all of those political dissidents), and sometimes resorting to outright bribery and/or threats.

And now back to my old (and current standard): health care. In 10th grade, I was forced to read the horrible (some call it a "classic") book, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. Who knew I would be linking to an article making an artful play on the book I once despised? But here it is - a refreshing outlook on solutions to improve health care - Health care and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. While I am distressed by the state of health care in the United States, sometimes health care in developing countries seems like a lost cause. (Don't worry, I haven't lost my naive sense that I can fix the world. Just sometimes gets me down.) Because "where else can you find a low-tech investment in health care that increases patient coverage by nearly 600 percent?"

Finally, some perspective from the ever-informative people at Foreign Passport: Africa is really, really big. If you didn't know this already, see the map for some additional perspective.

(Next week, I'll be back to my normal ways, posting delightful pictures of Thai beaches and temples in the hopes of tempting you to come here. Cathay Pacific has flights for less than $1200 from JFK to BKK... take advantage now!)

Vienna

I forgot how much I liked rice. I know this must seem like a strange way to begin a post with the subject, Vienna, but I really enjoy the food in Thailand... and Vienna made me forget ALL about that! Mmm, my mouth is watering just thinking about all the wonderful food I ate (especially the desserts!).

Sachertort at Cafe Sacher

I arrived in Vienna after pretty uneventful flights. Although my flight from Bangkok was delayed, I still managed to make my connections and all of my bags (including the all-important conference posters) made it through to Vienna. Then I headed to the train to make my way to my hotel. I'd printed the directions to the hotel, but still managed to get lost on the train, going several stops past where I was supposed to get off and then getting on the next train in the wrong direction. There are definitely some benefits to have only 3 major train lines in a city (Bangkok!), but once I got to know the system in Vienna, it was fairly easy to navigate. I also appreciate how Bangkok has Thai and English announcements. How spoiled I am!

When I arrived on Saturday, it was particularly warm, and I chided myself for bring almost every single piece of warm clothing I have in Bangkok (which includes several wraps and a light running jacket). I spent the early afternoon wandering around Vienna, waiting until I could check into my hotel and shower/relax a bit. After that, I walked around the neighborhood where I was staying, ate some delicious spaghetti carbonara, and went to bed.

Sunday I woke up early (oh jet lag) and had a delicious breakfast at my hotel. So that you fully appreciate all of the wonderful cheeses, breads, granola that come with a Western breakfast, I'll describe an "American" breakfast in Thailand - one egg, sunny side up, usually runny and cold; white toast, sometimes a bit soggy; two slices of tomatoes; processed "hot dog/sausage." The meal is really only redeemed by delicious Thai fruit. I pretty much gorged myself on yogurt, peaches, and granola every day, with some cheese, sliced meats (real!), coffee, juice, and the odd baguette or pastry... with jam.

I explored most of Sunday - wandering around the older part of the city, went to Stephankirche, taking a tour of Stat Oper (wow), went to Karlskirche (which is a little strange, because they have a viewing tower to see the cupola but it completely ruins the feeling of the church - beautiful paintings though and it was an amazing experience to be so high up in a church). I ate "dinner" at Cafe Sacher, having soup and then some delicious Sachertort. I went to Cafe Demel later in the week (to compare the Sachertort's, of course) and I think Cafe Sacher has better torts, although Cafe Demel has much better character inside and you can watch them baking!

The cupola in Karl's Church

The conference began Sunday night, so I went to the opening session (where people protested, grr) and then promptly passed out from jet lag and too much chocolate!

Monday I was busy with conference things, hanging up posters, standing next to posters, talking about fun HIV things. All in a day's work. Monday evening I wandered around where my hotel was, trying to stay awake. Then I completely deluded myself into thinking it was early (the sun had not set yet) when I realized it was after 8pm and I still hadn't had dinner. I had some delicious schnitzel and, of course, a delicious chocolate pastry.

The elevator/scaffolding to get to the cupola

Tuesday was also a busy conference day, with my poster exhibition, and two of my colleagues presentations. After the conference, I tried to find my way to the tramcar, got lost, found my way again, got lost again, asked for directions, and finally made it. Luckily, Vienna is an excellent place to get lost in because almost everything is scenic. I went to Scottenkirche and tried to eat at the MelkStiftKellar, but it was closed. Instead, I got a kugel at Cafe Landtmann. I think the waiter thought I was crazy because I ordered soup and kugel.

Me and my poster!

Wednesday morning I went to the Schonnbrunn (the summer palace of the kings). Wow! So much better than Versailles! It was also really interesting to learn a bit more about Viennese history, since I knew virtually nothing before coming. Then back to the conference to hear more presentations, gather posters, watch protesters. That evening I went to the Albertina art museum, which has one of Monet's water lilies. I love Monet... and Manet... and Degas... and basically anything that is Impressionist or Pointilist. Figured that out at the Albertina as I got into more modern art and did not like it at all. Not a fan of Picasso or Dali. Good to know! But I do love Monet!

Thursday... hmm, I can't remember what I did... conference things probably. I did meet up with a friend from graduate school for dinner (we went to Glacis Beisl... so great!) and ranted about the stupidity of protesting over a 3% increase in funding. (Long story, but it has to do with HIV funding and crazy people.) Had some (more) delicious food.

 Beautiful architecture in Vienna

Friday night I went to a concert of Mozart and Strauss. Unfortunately most of the big concert halls are closed for the season (although they do have great tours) so I couldn't go to an opera. And, after seeing the concert hall at Stat Oper, I really wanted to go - they sell standing tickets for 4 euro!!! I'll just have to go back. But it was wonderful music!

Saturday I went to Grinzing - unfortunately it was a little cold and rainy so I couldn't really wander. I ended up taking the bus farther out, stopping at almost every place to get out, wander until I couldn't take the cold anymore, then hop back on the bus. I went back to my hotel to pick up my bags and headed back to Bangkok in the evening.

Grinzing

Overall, it was a wonderful trip! I would like to go back to Vienna, maybe even live there (although I probably couldn't afford it). There were a few things in particular that I thought were funny - especially in contrast to my life in Bangkok. First, I love museums, and Thailand doesn't seem to fully appreciate them. Most are a bit decrepit so it was great to be able to go to a museum and learn. Second, if you couldn't tell, I really like the food! It was strange for me to be in a country I'd never been to and feel like I was eating comfort food. I know it's Western, but I don't think I've felt that before. Last (and something it is especially strange to appreciate), I really liked being able to mix in with people who lived there. There were several times when people asked me for directions - in English, German and French. Obviously, I don't look like a national here. Not being recognized as a foreigner, at least, until I spoke, was an added perk.

Transportation

Is it sad that the proudest accomplishment of my day was getting to work all by myself? Yes, when you live in the United States, drive a GPS-enabled car, and work 10 minutes away from your house. But, for me, it's quite an accomplishment. My office is in Nonthaburi, north of Bangkok, and is a little difficult to get to when you do not own a car. Luckily for me, there have been TDYers staying and the embassy provides a vehicle from downtown Bangkok to Nonthaburi. So, I've been hitching a ride with them. However, this week, there are no TDYers and I was left to navigate my way to work.

Today, excited by the possibility of getting to work all by myself and apprehensive of getting lost in the mess that are Bangkok roads, I began my journey. First mode of transportation: motorbike. This part was easy - I take a motorbike to the BTS Skytrain almost everyday. (I am NOT a morning person and the idea of walking to the BTS, regardless of the weather, at 7 in the morning is enough to make me roll over every morning and sleep the extra 15 minutes.) The motorbikers even know me now and rather than walking down the street to the corner, they come pick me up as soon as I poke my head into the sub-soi. The ride is about 5 minutes long and costs 15 baht.

Next step is the Skytrain, again, easy-smeazy. In the morning, the train comes every 5 minutes or so. There's hardly a wait and the train is air-conditioned (sometimes a little too much!). I take it two stops, from Asoke to Ploen Chit. Takes about 10 minutes total (including walking time from the bike to the train) and costs 20 baht.

Now, here comes the challenging part: getting a public van to take me to Ngam Wong Wan. Try saying that three times fast... or just once. No matter how hard I've tried and practiced, I can NOT pronounce those words correctly. I've had complete strangers and friends alike laugh at me (once they understand what I'm trying to say, of course). The "ng" sound is baffling and "wong" and "wan" sound exactly the same to me. Nevertheless, as I waited at the Caltex station for the no. 89 van, a driver, who had stopped to get coffee, caught my attention, called "Ngam Wong Wan," and we headed off. Easy-peazy! The trip took about 25 minutes and cost 35 baht.

High off the adrenaline from finding my van (note: I'm excited from catching a van - this fellow is excited from escaping from a herd of wild elephants), I enjoyed the trip for the first half. Then I began thinking of my next step - while the MOPH is off of Ngam Wong Wan, the van drops you off on the other side of the expressway, and I would need to take a taxi from where the van dropped me off to work. I had a pretty good idea of where I would be dropped off and a tentative idea of where my office was in relation to that, but catching a taxi can be a bit tricky. Often, drivers will say they know where they're going, but then you circle around Bangkok for an hour. But, I was also equipped with the address of my office, written in English and Thai, and the assurances of my co-workers that I could call them and they would give directions to my driver.

I got off the van and headed to the pedestrian overpass to try to catch a taxi heading in the correct direction. (On the way I passed a McDonalds, so guess what, Dad? I finally got that picture of the bowing Ronald!) After hailing a taxi and being rejected twice, I finally got a driver who knew where the MOPH was. Three minutes later, I was at work. Taxi cost 50 baht.

To recap: 4 types of transportation (bike, Skytrain, van, and taxi); 45 minutes; 120 baht ($3.61). And, I got to work before 8am!

World AIDS Day

World AIDS Day was on December 1, and several news organizations highlighted it. Here are some interesting articles:

How Obama is Changing Bush's World AIDS Plan

South Africa vows to treat all babies with HIV

U.N. report: New HIV infections decreasing

Two new acronyms

MFWIC and NCHSTP... both told to me by my mentor.

NCHHSTP (affectionately called "Nacho Stop" by my mentor, so you need to imagine this discussion with a Dutch accent) stands for National Center for HIV/AIDS, Viral Hepatitis, STD, and TB Prevention.

First person to get MFWIC right gets a prize.

Another sentance of acronyms I heard at a conference this week: Our funding is through PEPFAR to USAID, then FHI collaborates with HCMC PAC AIDS Center to support MSM at the Blue Sky Club.

Got that?

The Small Things

It's amazing how the smallest things can make such a big difference. For example, in my life, not living out of a suitcase and finding the grocery store were huge accomplishments. For another fellow, it's moving from temporary housing to slightly-less-temporary housing. For another, it's making friends by singing karaoke of Celine Dion.

Anyway, here's a brief "day-in-the-life" post - not too interesting but several people have asked ;)

So traffic in Bangkok, as I've mentioned, is not great. (And, I've heard that it's going to get worse - right now is students' break and they start back up next week. I can hardly wait.) Luckily, getting to Nonthaburi is a reverse commute out of Bangkok. Once we get on the expressway, the traffic is mild and it can take less than 15 minutes to get to work. The tricky part is getting out of Bangkok. The shuttle, an embassy vehicle provided to CDC for TDYer's (oh another acronym), picks up the temporary CDC staff at their hotel. For the first week, it picked up me and two IEDA people from Centre Point, picked up some local staff from a central location, and headed off on the expressway. We were at work in 20 minutes. But, it becomes slightly more complicated when other TDYer's come and stay at other hotels. Anyhow, the shuttle picks up at the Caltex (a central gas station right near the BTS Skytrain and the expressway) any time between 7:35 and 8:15 (it was VERY late one day). Now that I have an apartment, I walk or take a bike to the BTS and take it to Caltex and hop on the shuttle. Commute time: Between 1/2 hour and 1-1/2 hours.

Usually I am the first one from my group to arrive at work. "My group" is the behavioral section of the Division of HIV/AIDS Prevention (DHAP). It is separate from the Global AIDS Program (GAP), mainly because of funding (a wonderful remnant of W's PEPFAR policy). So, I get to my office around 8am, open the curtains so I can watch the rain clouds coming, and turn my computer on. Thus far, work has not been entirely exciting. The first two weeks I spent reading about the projects going on (and writing down what all the acronyms stood for). Luckily, I also spent the first two weeks getting to know the rest of the team.

The team consists of Frits (my mentor), P'Aoy (the second in command), Took, and Oy. There are also several other people who work at the clinic (more on that later). P'Aoy is extremely nice, looks after me, makes sure I have weekend plans, helped me find housing, and is just motherly and guiding. Her office is right next to mine. Took, the only other male on the team besides Frits, is fun-loving and, I think, the fashionable one of the office. He is also very patient in answering my many questions, helping me order lunch (making sure it's "for a child," aka not spicy), and teaching me Thai words. Oy, the qualitative specialist of the group, is the traveler of the group, and she has already told me she'll help negotiate good prices for me when I travel and give me good recommendations. She's also extremely welcoming and makes sure I am up-to-date on conversations held mainly in Thai. They are a great group of people to work with and I look forward to learning a lot from them.

So then I leave work around 4:30pm - and hope it hasn't rained recently or is a Friday, because then traffic will be worse. Usually I get back any time between 5:30 and 6:30. I have to make dinner plans before I get home or else I tend to crash on my couch. Food is pretty easy to come by, so even if I am too lazy to go someplace, there are several places around the corner from my apartment that have food. By 10pm I'm ready for bed.

That's my typical day.

Next post, the work I'm doing.

ASPH/CDC/TUC...

Often in the past week, I've felt like I did not understand what people around me were saying. Reasonable, right? I'm in Thailand - people speak Thai and I know only two Thai phrases thus far (hello and thank you).

Yet, most of the time, my confusion occurs around English speakers. There is, as I was repeatedly warned, another language of the CDC: acronyms. People throw them around like most people use articles (the, a, an). I've heard individuals speak entire sentences using acronyms. It's an impressive and daunting language that learning is almost as complicated as learning Thai.

In the interest of educating you (and saving my fingers from typing extra letters), here is a brief reference list of the acronyms I've come across so far.

CDC - US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (I know, this does not make sense - the acronym should be CDCP, but historically, the office was known as the "Communicable Disease Center.")
TUC - Thailand Ministry of Public Health (MOPH) - U.S. CDC Collaboration
ASPH - Association of Schools of Public Health (an American organization)
MSM - men who have sex with men (this removes the self-identifying terms such as homosexual that many people may not accept)
HIV - human immunodeficiency virus (the virus that causes AIDS)
AIDS - acquired immune deficiency syndrome
COGH - Center for Global Health (a part of CDC)
BKK - Bangkok
ARV - antiretroviral (drugs used to help people with HIV)
PrEP - pre-exposure prophylaxis (this abbreviation is used with HIV research - if you know about preventing mother to child transmission of HIV, it's the same idea except is now being studied in high-risk populations)
PEPFAR - President's Emergency Plan For AIDS Relief (the first wave began under Bush, PEPFAR 2 has just been renewed under Obama - look it up on Wikipedia)
GAP - Global AIDS Program (funded mainly by PEPFAR)
DHAP - Division of HIV/AIDS Prevention (PEPFAR did not allow the funding to go to HIV/AIDS research, leading to a division of program implementation and research. You can come to your own conclusions about the logic behind that.)
TDY - Temporary duty assignment (Yes, I know the letters don't match up. I still don't know why but if you know, please comment.)

These are the ones I have come across this week (that I remember). I'm sure there will be more to add soon.

Bangkok - Day 7

Oh my goodness! What a week! I cannot believe I have been in Bangkok for a full week now.

The week began slowly... that is, after two flights, totaling 29 hours travel time. My flights, first from JFK to Hong Kong then to Bangkok, were uneventful. My sojourn through the Bangkok airport was equally uneventful, despite a rather nerve-wracking wait while the Thai immigration officer examined my passport and visa before finally stamping it and allowing me through to Thailand. I found all of my bags, found the recommended taxi service, and arrived at my serviced apartment. (I think my travels to Sierra Leone have made me a little paranoid about international airports, as the simple act of getting all of my bags shocked and thrilled me.)

I arrived at my "serviced apartment," or long-stay hotel, and wondered if I was in the right place. The Centre Point is beautiful! It's pretty much a 5 star hotel with incredibly friendly staff. I will take pictures and post them. I have a gorgeous view from my 21st story balcony of downtown Bangkok, including Lumpini Park, which offers a rare patch of green among the skyscrapers and cement.

The first few days are an overwhelming blur. Walking around Bangkok, getting lost, trying to find my way back while deciphering Thai, eating unknown foods, dealing with crazy traffic jams, and avoiding getting run over by a (enter some form of vehicle here) are the highlights and lowlights.

First - walking around Bangkok. There is no standard way of translating Thai letters into the Latin alphabet. So, each translator tends to spell words differently. I have a map that spells the same street name three different ways. I've found the best way to figure out how to speak a Thai word is to look at all the different spellings. For example: Chatuchak is also spelled Jatujak. This, of course, means that it's a bit difficult to use a map to get around which leads to my second and third points - getting lost (pretty self-explanatory) and deciphering Thai.

Next, eating unknown foods - all I can say is yum. I could use fancier words to describe Thai food (enticing, delicious, ambrosial) but yum... well, encompasses it all. And, food is available everywhere: there are thousands of street vendors whose culinary expertise is enviable. Each vendor seems to find the right mix of tastes, textures and smells to create a memorable dining experience (even when you are eating "street food"). I have yet to find a dish I do not like, despite my dislike of seafood and chili peppers.

Finally, crazy traffic jams and trying not to get run over. Although I have heard there are worse cities for traffic, I have yet to see one. Bangkok is a mangled mess of streets that wind and wander through the city, changing names, directions and speeds. There are few major thoroughfares and when it rains (as it tends to in the rainy season), the smaller streets flood, causing insane jams. Even when it does not rain, jams occur without rhyme or reason at all hours of the day and night. The traffic system is exponentially intensified by the crushing congregation of cars, trucks, buses, vans, taxis, motorcycles, tuk-tuks, bicycles, other various wheeled objects, and, of course, pedestrians. Then, to top it all off in my jet-lagged, culture-shocked, sensory-deluged brain, they drive on the left side of the road. So, I look the wrong way when I cross.

And, that was my first week. Next up, the weekend!

Bangkok - Day 1... Trying to Stay Awake

Hello All,

Happy October! I can not believe it's already fall (in the Northeast USA, at least). I hope everything is going well wherever you are.

As some of you might know, I will be working in Thailand for at least a year, as an ASPH/CDC global health fellow. I am working with the CDC (US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention) in the Division of HIV/AIDS Prevention (DHAP). I arrived safely in Bangkok, Thailand, late last night and now I'm incredibly jet-lagged. But, the process (and my first 16 hour flight) was not too bad. Aside from an immigration officer who made me wait nervously for what seemed like forever, the whole trip went very well. I'm looking forward to learning more about Thailand and working with the CDC.

I'll be sending out occasional emails (about Thailand, work, whatever) while here - if you want to receive them, just let me know.

That's all for now. I'm currently trying to do my best to stay awake.

Katie