Sachertort at Cafe Sacher
I arrived in Vienna after pretty uneventful flights. Although my flight from Bangkok was delayed, I still managed to make my connections and all of my bags (including the all-important conference posters) made it through to Vienna. Then I headed to the train to make my way to my hotel. I'd printed the directions to the hotel, but still managed to get lost on the train, going several stops past where I was supposed to get off and then getting on the next train in the wrong direction. There are definitely some benefits to have only 3 major train lines in a city (Bangkok!), but once I got to know the system in Vienna, it was fairly easy to navigate. I also appreciate how Bangkok has Thai and English announcements. How spoiled I am!
When I arrived on Saturday, it was particularly warm, and I chided myself for bring almost every single piece of warm clothing I have in Bangkok (which includes several wraps and a light running jacket). I spent the early afternoon wandering around Vienna, waiting until I could check into my hotel and shower/relax a bit. After that, I walked around the neighborhood where I was staying, ate some delicious spaghetti carbonara, and went to bed.
Sunday I woke up early (oh jet lag) and had a delicious breakfast at my hotel. So that you fully appreciate all of the wonderful cheeses, breads, granola that come with a Western breakfast, I'll describe an "American" breakfast in Thailand - one egg, sunny side up, usually runny and cold; white toast, sometimes a bit soggy; two slices of tomatoes; processed "hot dog/sausage." The meal is really only redeemed by delicious Thai fruit. I pretty much gorged myself on yogurt, peaches, and granola every day, with some cheese, sliced meats (real!), coffee, juice, and the odd baguette or pastry... with jam.
I explored most of Sunday - wandering around the older part of the city, went to Stephankirche, taking a tour of Stat Oper (wow), went to Karlskirche (which is a little strange, because they have a viewing tower to see the cupola but it completely ruins the feeling of the church - beautiful paintings though and it was an amazing experience to be so high up in a church). I ate "dinner" at Cafe Sacher, having soup and then some delicious Sachertort. I went to Cafe Demel later in the week (to compare the Sachertort's, of course) and I think Cafe Sacher has better torts, although Cafe Demel has much better character inside and you can watch them baking!
The cupola in Karl's Church
The conference began Sunday night, so I went to the opening session (where people protested, grr) and then promptly passed out from jet lag and too much chocolate!
Monday I was busy with conference things, hanging up posters, standing next to posters, talking about fun HIV things. All in a day's work. Monday evening I wandered around where my hotel was, trying to stay awake. Then I completely deluded myself into thinking it was early (the sun had not set yet) when I realized it was after 8pm and I still hadn't had dinner. I had some delicious schnitzel and, of course, a delicious chocolate pastry.
The elevator/scaffolding to get to the cupola
Tuesday was also a busy conference day, with my poster exhibition, and two of my colleagues presentations. After the conference, I tried to find my way to the tramcar, got lost, found my way again, got lost again, asked for directions, and finally made it. Luckily, Vienna is an excellent place to get lost in because almost everything is scenic. I went to Scottenkirche and tried to eat at the MelkStiftKellar, but it was closed. Instead, I got a kugel at Cafe Landtmann. I think the waiter thought I was crazy because I ordered soup and kugel.
Me and my poster!
Wednesday morning I went to the Schonnbrunn (the summer palace of the kings). Wow! So much better than Versailles! It was also really interesting to learn a bit more about Viennese history, since I knew virtually nothing before coming. Then back to the conference to hear more presentations, gather posters, watch protesters. That evening I went to the Albertina art museum, which has one of Monet's water lilies. I love Monet... and Manet... and Degas... and basically anything that is Impressionist or Pointilist. Figured that out at the Albertina as I got into more modern art and did not like it at all. Not a fan of Picasso or Dali. Good to know! But I do love Monet!
Thursday... hmm, I can't remember what I did... conference things probably. I did meet up with a friend from graduate school for dinner (we went to Glacis Beisl... so great!) and ranted about the stupidity of protesting over a 3% increase in funding. (Long story, but it has to do with HIV funding and crazy people.) Had some (more) delicious food.
Beautiful architecture in Vienna
Friday night I went to a concert of Mozart and Strauss. Unfortunately most of the big concert halls are closed for the season (although they do have great tours) so I couldn't go to an opera. And, after seeing the concert hall at Stat Oper, I really wanted to go - they sell standing tickets for 4 euro!!! I'll just have to go back. But it was wonderful music!
Saturday I went to Grinzing - unfortunately it was a little cold and rainy so I couldn't really wander. I ended up taking the bus farther out, stopping at almost every place to get out, wander until I couldn't take the cold anymore, then hop back on the bus. I went back to my hotel to pick up my bags and headed back to Bangkok in the evening.
Grinzing
Overall, it was a wonderful trip! I would like to go back to Vienna, maybe even live there (although I probably couldn't afford it). There were a few things in particular that I thought were funny - especially in contrast to my life in Bangkok. First, I love museums, and Thailand doesn't seem to fully appreciate them. Most are a bit decrepit so it was great to be able to go to a museum and learn. Second, if you couldn't tell, I really like the food! It was strange for me to be in a country I'd never been to and feel like I was eating comfort food. I know it's Western, but I don't think I've felt that before. Last (and something it is especially strange to appreciate), I really liked being able to mix in with people who lived there. There were several times when people asked me for directions - in English, German and French. Obviously, I don't look like a national here. Not being recognized as a foreigner, at least, until I spoke, was an added perk.
